![]() ![]() The nickel on the frame is in quite good condition, the barrel rather less so, with significant loss of the plating in front of and above the cylinder. The gun’s serial number indicates it was from the first year of production- 1894 or 95, depending on who you ask. All of the internals are accessed either from the bottom by removing the trigger-guard, or from the top by removing the hammer-shroud. The gun has a one-piece frame with no sideplate. I have large hands but the grip is only slightly awkward for me I may or may not remedy this with a custom grip. It locks up very tight and the trigger, while quite heavy, is very smooth. Hey, acknowledging that there is a problem is the first step, right? Anyway I eventually looked at it and was surprised and impressed at the quality. It was there for months but I had little interest because… well, because it was an Iver Johnson and when it comes to top-breaks I am a total S&W snob. I found this gun at Pinto’s Guns in Renton, WA. I expect that this was done in the interest of cost savings the original lock was stronger and more fool-proof. Both of these features were eventually discontinued the trigger-safety was removed and the lock was replaced with a simple T-Bar lock similar to S&W revolvers of the period. The locking mechanism is very strong, using a single side-lever to turn a solid bar to disengage. It uses their famous transfer-bar safety, and additionally has a trigger-safety that would later see use on the uber-popular Glock semi-automatic pistols. ![]() The gun we are discussing is an Automatic Safety Hammerless Model 1. They advertised prolifically, with a strong emphasis on the safety of these guns. In succeeding years they made inexpensive solid-frame revolvers and single-barrel top-break shotguns as well. They were nothing if not prolific they made 100,000 revolvers in their first year of production, which sold, depending on the model, for $4-$8. The Automatic portion of the name referred to the fact that it automatically ejected the cartridges when the revolver was opened. The ‘Safety’ referred to the use of a transfer-bar safety, which allowed the gun to be carried with the hammer down on a loaded chamber. In 1894 launched the production of their ‘Safety Automatic’ revolvers, and shortly thereafter launched hammerless versions of these guns. Most smokeless pressure curves have more of a spike.Iver Johnson’s Arms and Cycle works was formed under that name in 1891 in Fitchburg, Massachusetts. The reason for avoiding smokeless ammo in a gun meant for BP even when the rounds make the same pressure has to do with the pressure curves. If you're not into reloading, Buffalo Arms Company sells black powder ammo but they don't give it away. Most people into shooting black powder ammunition reload their own. I haven't heard of anybody sending an Iver out for x-ray or Magnaflux testing. Personally I'll wear a heavy leather glove (along with eyes & ears) and shoot with my weak hand a new to me old gun the first couple times out. Most people "just go for it" if it's mechanically and visually checked out. Check the cylinder chamber walls for pitting, cracks, or a thin wall (thin walls are usually on the barrel end of the cylinder). Check the barrel's throat/forcing cone area for cracks. A little bit of bore pitting isn't the end of the world. Give the bore a good scrubbing with a bronze bore brush. If it doesn't retract, you have a weak/broken/missing firing pin spring.Ĭheck that the barrel latches securely to the frame. If the firing pin protrudes, point the gun down and release the trigger while looking to see that the firing pin retracts. Just remember to do those checks with the trigger fully pulled back.Ĭheck the firing pin by opening the barrel, pull and hold the trigger, look to see if the pin protrudes. Most of the basic function checks (cylinder end play, backlash, timing) on these old Ivers is no different than any other revolver. ![]()
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